onesto

looks good, right? guess again.

we felt like a treat yesterday so, naturally, we decided to indulge in some pizza.  we've been making an effort to branch out and try some more pizza in st. louis besides pi.  our recent trip to vito's was a success, after all, so it just goes to show that you just gotta take a chance and give it a shot.  onesto has received a lot of positive press, so it's time we discovered what all the fuss is about.

mission: 

onesto

princeton heights

terrain: 

we really like that onesto is perched on a little neighborhood street corner.  driving up to it, you feel like you've arrived at a special local place.  the guy next door was watering his grass, the twinkle lights were just turned on, and the place glowed like the set of your favorite family comedy.  inside, the ceiling tiles are painted brick red, and the walls are a warm neutral non-color, not interesting but not offending, and remarkably close to the color of their dough.  there are the obligatory jars of oil-soaked veggies artfully arranged, and some jigsaw-cut decorations spelling out "family," "friends," "love," and other such things that often drive us to places where we can eat our emotions and our weight in cheese and dough.  there are also some flemish-style paintings that provide the perfect ironic complement to the star wars memorabilia perched atop them.

personnel: 

we were literally passed by three people until someone seated us, and we watched the merry-go-round servers bobbing and weaving for some time until we placed our order.  our own server was friendly enough, though she only stopped by our table three times.  yes, onesto turned out to be pretty busy after we arrived, but that doesn't explain a thirty minute absence.  still, it's not fine dining and we luckily didn't need anything else, so we guess all's well that ends...well enough. [edit: recently, onesto's owner invited us back to see if we'd give them another chance. we agreed, and we're happy we did. let it be known that our service on our most recent visit was exceptionally good.]

rations: 

we knew, being such pi-ous devotees to our usual pizza place, that we could afford to be only cautiously optimistic because of our pi-as.  (we don't apologize for the bad jokes. we really like pi.)  but let the record show we were looking forward to it, and we did have all those framed articles at the entrance to remind us that we were in the care of those deemed good enough to be on some top ten lists. so bring it on, we said. then we waited for thirty minutes.

for pizza, we ordered the all about the veggies pie.  it was nigh on impossible to eat without fork and knife, and the thickness of the dough was inconsistent and incapable of standing up to the weight of the nearly flavorless mozzarella (when there was cheese covering the dough).  really, it was more like an 18"-wide bread bowl of soup.  and when we said that the color of the walls is like the color of their dough, we also mean that it is likely just as tasty.  the sauce was the only ingredient with any flavor: very savory and almost smoky with just the right amount of salt, it deserves a better cheese.  while we appreciate the variety of vegetables they said they'd use for toppings, we sadly couldn't enjoy them as there were actually very few for the size of the pizza, and they were so overcooked they practically melted in your mouth--the onions were not caramelized as advertised, and the eggplant was completely absent. the second photo demonstrates how after working on two slices, the third we reached for literally broke in half because the dough was too soggy.  we understand that toppings will slide off of any slice when held at that angle, but few disintegrate at crust level.  the third photo is the dough remainders.  it's one thing if the dough is fantastic and speaks for itself, but that ain't the case at onesto.

the spinach calzone, on the other hand, was pretty decent.  the dough was crispy on the outside and sturdy enough to contain the cheese, and the addition of parmesan and ricotta to the mozzarella made all the difference in flavor.  slightly creamy with a piquant aged nuttiness, it really put the pizza to shame.  but make no mistake, the dough was still flavorless and added nothing except that this time it didn't disintegrate.  the marinara on the side, assuredly veg- and anchovy-friendly, did have a nice, well-balanced taste but ultimately didn't add much to the calzone.  as for the spinach, it was practically missing from one half and chopped too finely to taste or feel at all.  there just wasn't enough for the amount of cheese, as you can see in the photo.  still, at less than half the cost of the pizza, the calzone is the way to go.

most of the menu is undoubtedly omnivoriented, and onesto just isn't a place that's decided to think about vegetarians.  it's their prerogative, of course, and we're at least glad to report that you always have the option to create your own pie.  their toppings list is certainly more interesting than many we've seen.  but toppings don't make the pizza, just as clothes don't make the man.  you can't dress up boring dough with boring cheese and overcooked vegetables and think it makes anything more than just food.

assessment: 

c+

vegetarian-friendly score:
c+

eau bistro

[EDIT 06 March: just wrote a follow-up. please read both.]

it pains us to have to write this review. the first time we ate at eau bistro, we had a wonderful meal. it didn't hurt that our first visit was for a valentine's day celebration, so we were in good spirits already, but the food truly was delicious. the first time. our second visit? not so much.

mission:

eau bistro | chase park plaza

central west end

terrain:

most st. louisans are at least familiar with the exterior beauty of the chase park plaza.  impressively, the interior rivals the breathtaking facade.  chase park is to opulent as kristen stewart is to vapid.  chase park is perhaps the most ornate of all buildings in the area, and eau bistro, nestled in the spacious chase park confines, fits the regal profile perfectly.  plush, roomy booths; vaulted ceilings; dimmed, romantic lighting; eau bistro is tailored specifically for an intimate rendezvous.  of course, we dined with two of our friends on this night, and we don't "swing" that way, but we still felt seduced by the lush interior. 

personnel:

our server was quite good, really, and all at our table were impressed with her warmth.  she was also quick to inquire about all of our questions (and there were many) about veg-friendly fare.  she made us feel quite assured that our meal would be completely meat-free.  in this matter, she was not wrong.  a bonus: she brought us a bread basket without us having to ask!

rations:

so, yeah, let's start with the bread basket.  the first time we ate at eau bistro, we were absolutely floored by the quality of their bread offerings.  from the well-balanced (a little crisp on the outside, warm and soft on the inside, just enough salt) pretzels to the deliciously savory "biscuits" to the salty rolls, we couldn't get enough.  seriously.  we asked for a second basket, gluttons we be.  the bread was so good, in fact, that clark proclaimed on urbanspoon that it was the best bread basket in the city.  after our most recent trip, though, clark has issued a retraction.  the basket consisted of the same offering, only this time everything was "perfectly ordinary," tilting dangerously close to "thoroughly disappointing."  crumbly-dry biscuits, overcooked pretzels, and poorly seasoned rolls cast an inauspicious cloud over our meal.  (note: we know it's a bit much to go on so long about bread, but at a restaurant of this "quality," everything must go under the microscope.  the fact that a place like vito's can so utterly outshine eau bistro speaks volumes about both places, by the way.)

eau bistro is sporting a new menu and philosophy compared to our last visit, and not surprisingly the menu is designed primarily for omnivores with locavore tendencies.  there are a couple of salads without meat, a couple of veg entrees, and a slew of veggie "sides" that intrigued us; all of these offerings confirmed that eau bistro--at least on paper--is one of the more vegetarian-inclusive fine dining restaurants in the area.  unfortunately, we were wholly unimpressed by the quality of the food and utterly disgusted by the lack of value.  for real, we were pissed!  let's discuss.

after the bread basket, we moved on to three of the yummy-sounding sides, all of which our server made sure were meat-free.  there was cauliflower puree, roasted brussels sprouts, and tillamook chedder potato croquettes.  they all sound great, right?!  full disclosure: they were all quite good.  the problem was the serving size.  as you can see, there's little more than a dollop of puree, only two croquettes, and about five sprouts.  and, people, each "side" was five bucks!  of course, we knew the meal would be expensive, even with our restaurant.com discount, but this was highway freaking robbery.  still, we didn't freak out because we had our entrees to look forward to.

we received two dishes: sous vide eggplant and wild mushroom risotto.  both arrived in insanely hot dishes, but we were shocked by how tepid the actual food was.  looking past the temperature, we were struck by how boring everything looked.  there were a few grape tomatoes in the sous vide, a taste of greens, and maybe five full noodles. the pine nuts--already very light in flavor profile--didn't add anything to the dish, and the pecorino lacked the punch necessary to excite.  adding insult to injury, there were only two slivers of eggplant sitting beneath the scant melange.  yes, the noodles are locally made and the vegetables are locally sourced, and we love eau bistro for doing that, but we're still not sure what we paid 20 bucks for.

the second entree was hardly better.  overcooked risotto, weak gorgonzola dolce cream, a tiny mound of spinach and a few slivers of mushrooms were not nearly enough to justify the 20 dollar price tag.  sure, we're happy to see the word "vegetarian" on a menu, but these offerings felt like a token gesture that we've seen all too often--you know, "here, eat this, it doesn't have meat."  where. were. the. vegetables???  for comparison's sake, take a look at terrene's veggie meatloaf: same price; quadruple the veggies.

eau bistro's new kitchen has taken care of vegetarian business on paper, and we applaud them for that, but the execution is sorely lacking.  on special occasions, we're perfectly willing to pay a bit more, but there must be justification for such bloated price tags.  otherwise, the customer feels duped, bamboozled, cheated. or worse: bloody mad.

assessment:

c+

vegetarian-friendly score:

b

india's rasoi

in the mood for masala, but not for a drive all the way to mayuri, we decided it was finally time to try india's rasoi. we've been saving this one for a while, and at the end of the night, we had some mixed feelings--delight that it was worth the wait, and frustration that it took us so long to get there! 

mission: 

india's rasoi | euclid

central west end

terrain: 

india's rasoi (not to be confused with raj's rasoi) is, from the moment you walk in the door, the kind of place that makes you sigh in relief and forget that at some point during the day you had Responsibilities. the dim mood-lighting perfectly illuminates the rich, warm colors of the decor. the eggplant ceiling, orange wallpaper, red plush seating, and woven fan blades give the place a spirited and exotic feel without going overboard. they've chosen a few pieces of art for embellishment (including a mural and some paintings), and they are tastefully and artfully placed.  it's an uncluttered, modern sort of sumptuousness.  this is a very comfortable, intimate setting that is somehow perfect for a romantic meal for two, an outing for the family, or even a get-together for friends.

personnel: 

when we arrived, the host's station was empty, but it took the person at the bar not even a moment's hesitation to come over and seat us.  not only that, but he looked at our reservation on the computer, saw our special request, and made sure to accommodate us--all the while being perfectly friendly and warm.  we were seriously impressed.  our server was equally warm, very attentive, and more than happy to ask the kitchen our questions.  this is clearly a place that takes care of their business.  and probably also their employees--we couldn't help but notice how content they all looked. 

rations: 

though we were tempted to order the rasoi vegetarian dinner, we decided to save that for our next trip.  it took some time to whittle it down to just two, but we finally ordered channa masala, palak paneer, and rosemary naan.  rarely do our requests for extra spice ever get fulfilled, so we were very pleased when a few bites of chickpeas had us reaching for our water glasses.  not that we were surprised; everything so far was pitch perfect.  we've commented on requesting extra heat before--usually it seems as though chefs assume we can't take the heat.  what we love about rasoi is that they were able to heed our request, but not at the cost of the flavor of the dishes.  both were still very balanced, and unbelievably flavorful.  in the channa masala, the chickpeas were perfectly cooked and the sauce was robust; it never felt too oily, and even after a half hour it didn't separate.  

the spinach and cream were in perfect proportion in the palak paneer.  the spinach really held its own in this dish--none of that creamy paste we're sure you've all suffered.  rather, the consistency was smooth but full-bodied, and with a distinctly fresh, spinachy taste.  the paneer, however, was the one component all evening that left us wanting more.  literally, we wished we had more, but it also just wasn't all that flavorful.  for our money, mayuri still has the most delectable homemade paneer we've ever tasted.  rasoi's was a bit hard, and perhaps this contributed to a lack of flavor.  

and then, the rosemary naan was a revelation.  why don't all indian restaurants serve this?!  it was superb--spongy and crispy, herbacious and smooth.  it was the perfect dipping, sopping, scooping vehicle for wiping all our dishes clean.

we're so glad to add rasoi to our list of standards, and it's great to know that ethnic food thrives in st. louis.  rasoi is so accommodating of vegetarian needs and tastes that this is one place we feel really safe dining at.  and what's more, they offer a lunch buffet (where the vegetarian dishes are kept separate)--and all on convenient euclid.

assessment: 

a-

vegetarian-friendly score:
a-

sage

on a whim, we visited sage about a year ago, but we've just been too busy exploring other restaurants to make a return visit.  and, quite frankly, we just couldn't remember anything (good or bad) about sage, so it never came up in conversation.  we finally made our return a few nights ago when a friend asked us to dinner.  the results were, well, a mixed bag.

mission: 

sage

soulard

terrain:

sage is a relatively good-lookin' place that's clearly designed for the young urban professionals of benton park.  when you first come through the door, you're greeted by the host, and to the left is a generously-sized bar/lounge situated next to a stairway that leads we know not where. (we suspect folks much cooler than we are invited upstairs for elaborate soirees, but we can't confirm this.)  in any case, the bar and dining room are separate, with the smallish, two-level dining room occupying the majority of the restaurant. really, it's a pretty nice joint, but there's just not much in the way of original decor to make sage anything to gush about.

personnel:

our host didn't seem very happy to see us... an inauspicious beginning, no doubt.  and then our server seemed preoccupied (put out?) during the entire dinner.  the worst part, though, was that we received conflicting reports from the kitchen when we asked about vegetarian-friendly options.  as you can imagine, it's tough to feel comfortable during a meal when you're not entirely convinced that your food is meat-free.  nothing like finding a grody porcine nugget in your soup, eh?

rations:
after an inordinately long wait, the night began with hummus (as is our custom).  we thought we remembered the spiced organic hummus as the highlight from our first visit, but we must have been mistaken, as this offering was a sudden and unwelcome reminder of reality.  it's not that the hummus isn't interesting; it's just that the hummus is unmemorable despite itself.  we commend sage for offering organic hummus, but it's the spice that fails them.  yes, it's different from other hummus in the city, but that doesn't make it good.  compounding the problem of odd flavoring was the lackluster flatbread.  but, hey, at least they warmed it up.  seriously, thank you for that, sage.  if we see another restaurant serve cold pita with hummus ever again, we're not gonna stick around for the rest of the meal.  a positive note: the red pepper slices were ultra fresh and ultra scrumptious!

next up was the roasted butternut squash soup and "gus' warm pretzels anheuser" (uh, yeah).  the former arrived with a film on top, a sure indication that the soup sat under the warmer for just a bit too long, but the flavor was solid despite the tepid profile.  we're not sure if the oyster crackers are supposed to be ironic, but we weren't amused either way.  the pretzels, too, were ordinary, and like the soup, they were oversalted.  yes, we know pretzels are supposed to be salty, but these put a smack down on our taste buds.  the accompanying mustard dip (vegans beware: contains honey!) was too tame to tackle the salty bread, but the asiago chips were totally yummy.

we finished the meal with the tortellini ratatouille, which was really just a bowl of tortellini in a cream sauce.  a handful of eggplant cubes and other scant vegetables does not a ratatouille make.  again, though, the dish was edible/not disgusting/decent, but we would not order it again.

we hate to make it sound like our experience at sage was awful--because it wasn't--but we have to be honest about our evaluation, which brings us to the conclusion: there's nothing we would want to order again. perhaps if there were more options for vegetarians (a wrap aint gonna cut it) we might be tempted to return, and we encourage you (as always) to make your own judgments, but we cannot officially endorse sage until the kitchen is ready to play nice with veg heads.

assessment:

b-

vegetarian-friendly score:

b-

vito's

as you have gathered by now, we don't do italian that often. but after seeing a lot of positive feedback about vito's, we figured it was worth a shot--and about time we get some pizza in the city from someplace other than pi, just for a change.

mission:

vito's

midtown

terrain:

vito's looks a lot like we imagine most established italian joints would look.  beigey sponge-painted walls with ceramic plates mounted on them, red vinyl booths, time-worn chairs and tables, the obligatory herb- and vegetable-filled oil jars. maybe a little cheesy, but comfortable. some of the tables seem a little close for comfort, but eating pizza is like watching a comedy--the group experience enhances it.

personnel:

we were met with no qualms when we requested a different table than the one we were originally given (we're freaks and we like to sit next to each other, not across). our waiter seemed a little impatient, even though it wasn't crowded when we got there. turns out that maybe he's just a tense guy because he was attentive enough and everything came out right. but really, none of the servers looked happy to be there and when clark went to the bar for a beer he was totally snubbed. he attributes this to just not being very pretty, but that doesn't explain why everyone else seemed so surly.

rations:

while we waited for our food, we were more than happy to go to town on the bread basket. they're really generous with them, too, but diner beware, these are too hard not to munch on--so don't spoil your appetite!

we started with the portabello spinach salad, featuring fresh spinach, roasted red peppers, feta, pecans, and roasted garlic balsamic vinaigrette. first, the spinach was glorious--crispy, beautiful, plump green leaves. bravo, vito's! the portabello was perfectly cooked and sliced small enough so as not to feel too meaty or soggy the way they can sometimes get. the feta and pecans were sprinkled on generously, and the addition of the peppers really balanced an otherwise pretty savory salad. to top it off, it was perfectly dressed; not too much to bog down the spinach, but just enough to add a great balance to the rest of the flavors. even clark, who is usually not a fan of balsamics, remarked how much he enjoyed the dressing. it must be the roasted garlic that helped tame that really distinctly sweet bite of balsamic vinegar. really lovely. obviously not as modern as something you would find at pi, but a truly yummy version of a more traditional salad.

of course, we had to spring for a sicilian pizza since that's vito's specialty. we ordered la cisinara, which comes with eggplant, kalamatas, mushrooms, and fontinella cheese. and because we loved that they offer a selection of whole wheat crust pies, we also got the sun-dried tomato pesto with fresh leaf spinach and fresh mozzarella. la cisinara was an initiation for lois, and clark, who is more familiar with them, thought it was decent. a hit-or-miss, really. it was a little undercooked in the middle, but the crust was fantastically crispy and flavorful. we could taste the freshness of the tomatoes in the sauce, and the addition of spices really saved the pizza. the toppings weren't interesting or plentiful enough to make us forget the softness of the middle of the pie, but when you got some, it was a good bite. the eggplant in particular was surprisingly good. great taste and texture, and in bite-size cubes just small enough not to get soggy. quite a delight, but too bad there were only about eight of them on the whole pie. the whole wheat crust pizza was truly unique. the one downside was the spinach: not enough! with about two leaves per slice, they looked like a complete afterthought. they really ought to use thin slices of spinach; that way, they could fit more on there without it looking like they just dumped a salad on the pizza. but it's a minor complaint, so on to the highlight of the meal: the delicious, perfectly charred, slightly sweet whole wheat crust. we've never had one that tasted like this. the sweetness of the whole wheat combined with the savory-tart pesto and salty fontinella was a spell-casting concoction hypnotizing enough to make us imagine that there could be times when we're not in the mood for pi.

no doubt, we were pleasantly surprised by vito's. while we didn't try any pasta dishes this time, that may be on the docket for our next visit. or maybe we'll just get some bread, some salads, and a whole wheat pie. those slu kids are lucky to be just up the street from this place!

assessment:

b+

vegetarian-friendly score:

b+

california pizza kitchen

we know what you're thinking, and we were thinking the same thing, too.  once again, though, clark found himself stranded in the mall and hungry for some new veg options.  cpk's menu promised plenty of veg-friendly fare, so he sat down for a quick bite.  (note: this review will be fairly brief.  just because.)

mission: 

california pizza kitchen | west county mall

west county

terrain: 

well, it's a chain restaurant.  generic in every sense of the word.  the one nice touch is that the kitchen is visible from most of the restaurant, so if you're eating alone you at least have some entertainment.

personnel: 

the server was adequate.  annoying at times, yes, but never snarky or anything.  she did retrieve some info from the kitchen about veg-friendly menu items (no, the tortilla chips are not homemade, but they are trans-fat free), but overall the incessant "is everything ok?  oh, great!" just sort of put clark in a foul mood. and what is it that makes servers think we're not interested in free bread baskets? maybe it's clark's pudgy cheeks. maybe we should thank them....

rations: 

here's the thing about cpk: it's actually quite progressive in terms of vegetarian awareness.  on their website, there's actually a "vegetarian" link, where customers can find exactly which items are veg-friendly and what ingredients can be substituted to make a safe vegetarian meal.  from vegans to lacto-ovo vegetarians, there's nutritional information for all.  pretty awesome, really.

for this visit (his second visit ever to a cpk), clark ordered from the "small cravings" menu, primarily because he felt guilty for eating out while his darling wife was at work but also because the menu is loaded with veg-friendly items.

he started with the white corn guacamole, which immediately set the tone for the rest of the meal.  the flavor? delicious.  the portion? pathetic.  yes, the idea of this menu is to allow customers to eat smaller portions, but this was ridiculous (just wait for the hummus!).  seriously, there were five black beans, a couple of jicama chunks, and virtually no trace of the serrano peppers.  still, the sweet white corn blended brilliantly with the avocado and cilantro, and the splash of lime was super refreshing.  it's terrific that a chain offers things like jicama, but it's unacceptable to utterly misrepresent a dish.  and the serving wasn't even enough to make use of half of the chips.  what a joke.

next up was the tuscan panzanella salad, which came dressed with a whole slew of veggies.  cannellini beans, beets, avocado, red onion, cucumber, cherry and yellow grape tomatoes, and basil were scattered everywhere, and the vinaigrette packed just enough punch without being overbearing.  it was the tomatoes, though, that kicked clark in the face!  dear gods, those maters were extraordinary!  and in february, for crying out loud.  why can't we get those tomatoes at whole foods???  anyway, after considerable moaning, clark finished off the salad, which is the "small craving" that came closest to being a legitimate serving size.

unfortunately, though, the meal did not end with the panzanella salad; it ended with the mediterranean plate.  ordinarily, we're suckers for mezze plates, so clark was immediately drawn to this option.  what a disappointment!  there couldn't have been more than a tablespoon's worth of hummus smeared on the plate, and the feta crumbles were nearly flavorless.  the little salad was dominated by kalamata olives.  worst of all: the four pathetically cold, unseasoned pita wedges.  in summary: it was a hot tepid mess.

it's tough to assess cpk objectively.  we want to celebrate what they're doing for vegetarians, and it's true that their food is flavored quite well.  but they'll have to do much better in the way of portion control and consistency of presentation before we'll be able to endorse them.  i mean, five black beans?  really?  gots ta raise yo game, cpk.

assessment: 

b-

vegetarian-friendly score:

b+